LAND 43 Yet again, a gloomy start to the day, the smothering cloud-blanket was impenetrable and dark pewter-grey. I started off by heading west, walking along the northern shore of Hammer Lake.
On the opposite side, the angular and boxy shapes of the lakeside hotels contrasted with the exposed ice-weathered granite bedrock, worn smooth by retreating glaciers during the last ice age.
I continued along the new ‘stonemasons path’ zigzagging up into the old quarry ‘shelves’, where there were fantastic panoramic views over Bornholm, the Hammer peninsular, Hammershus castle, and the village of Sandvig. On the horizon to the southeast across the wind-battered Baltic, lay the tiny rocky islands of Christiansø, and to the northeast, the distant blueish stripe of southern Sweden.
I followed the path down into mixed cherry and oak woodland and stopped to paint the view across Opal lake. Birch trees, early colonists to the quarry, were yellowing wonderfully.
From here I walked along the western edge of the lake and back into ‘Bornholm proper’. The wind was picking up, and agitated flocks of winter thrushes and geese passed overhead.
I spent some time exploring ‘Langebjerg’, a granite ridge with great view of the Hammer peninsula and the surrounding farmland. The area is grazed by gangs of friendly goats, which keep the bracken, bramble and juniper in check, and encourage orchids and other wildflowers – some of which are found nowhere else on Bornholm. I had my telescope with me, and from the top of the ridge had great views of a trio of roe deer resting in a field. I struggled for a while with the strange boxy shape of their heads.
Somewhat regretfully, I departed Langebjerg and headed onwards, past wonderful summerhouses with great views of the swelling sea. I eventually arrived at Madsebakke, one of Bornholm’s better-known attractions, where there are scores of rock carvings from the Bronze and Iron age – a plethora of ships, cup marks, and symbols all hammered or chiselled into the smooth granite bedrock.
The shorter days are acutely noticeable now. Speeding up, I followed a path back east through an area where organic farming practices that benefit wildlife are being demonstrated (trialled?). I perched for a while on one of several circular wooden platforms and tried capture the play between the rich autumnal colours and the heavy grey gloom.
The day concluded with a hasty tour past more iron and bronze age carvings – smooth low islands of granite bedrock almost hidden within the sea of cattle-grazed grass. From here I finished off walking around Hammersholm farm, sadly neglected but still impressive, with commanding views over many the places I had been walking through.
LAND 43
WEATHER REPORT – Overcast all day. Temperature 5 – 7 degrees. Wind 6 – 8 m/s, from the east. Hours of precipitation: 0 hours. Hours of sunshine: 0 hours.
STOPS with the BIVVY – 0
KILOMETRES WALKED – 12.98 km
DAY LASTED – 9h and 55 m
PEOPLE TALKED TO – 9
BIRDS SEEN and HEARD – 33 species (0 new) = 133 species in total.
LESSONS LEARNED – when crossing off the list, do it properly… I forgot my gas canister, meaning a long quick detour to beg for some boiled water from a friend – the thought of a day outside without hot tea and noodles too horrible to contemplate.
IN MY HEAD – I was mostly in the moment, painting, planning the route, dealing with the weather, and so on
www.benwoodhams.com 