LAND 25 – from Bastemose to Ekkodalen, 23.06.23

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LAND 25 The longest LAND trip of the year. From the top of the lookout tower at Bastemose I gazed out over the marsh, easing myself into the emerging day and the alternative reality of a LAND trip. It was warm and overcast, a little muggy, and for a moment the rising sun shone through a gap in the clouds and lit into the tops of a distant stand of trees a fiery orange, before disappearing again.

Sunrise, Bastemose

After a good deal of contemplation and reflection, I stumbled around the edge of the marsh, along an overgrown path that was fast being reclaimed by nature. I ended up back on the main road, and then headed into the northern part of the central forest. Paths that I knew from only a few years ago existed no more with new ones in their stead. I took an alternative route through the wood, bent over and swatting mosquitos and cobwebs out of my face. Eventually I arrived at one of Bornholm’s many forest shelters, where I rested for a while.

Iglemose

On the road again, I passed by the juniper wood, a small fenced off area grazed by livestock, which resembles how much of the central area of Bornholm would have looked before the plantations were established in the 19th century. Here was more space and a welcome respite from the mosquitos.

I walked on through the forest, but I struggled to connect with my surroundings. I felt burned out and lacked enthusiasm. I tried not to fight it, but instead just enjoy the walk. I met some cows.

I stopped for lunch by the side of Åsedamme, a small handsome lake popular with fishermen. On the margins dragonflies of all shapes and sizes whizzed about.

Åsedamme
Dragonfly tracks, Åsedamme

More contemplation and reflection. The day felt dreamlike – as if everything was paused. Not too hot, or too cold, with just a little wind. I carried on through the woods, passing through the playground where I had spent so much time with the kids when they were still young. I was very aware of how much things had changed – how trees had grown, ponds had dried out, and paths had been swallowed up.

I followed the Læs stream down through Grønnevad, just a trickle now. For a long while I was captivated by a group of Beautiful Demoiselle, the gaudy metallic blue and green males flitting around flamboyantly, chasing and displaying to the more soberly attired females. 

Demoiselles

I trudged on, glad to meet some friendly faces and emerge from the woods into the fieldscape again.

Cows, Grønnevad

I walked along a small road towards Ekkodalen. I Looked back towards the forest and all the greens.

The last few hours were spent rather listlessly, my mojo well and truly absent. As dusk approached, I found myself in the old hunters’ cottage in Ekkodalen, where for some unknown reason I embarked upon a painting of a window. An utterly hopeless end to the day.

Window, Hunters’ lodge, Ekkodalen

Next week (Saturday) I walk in the wonderful Ekkodalen and end the trip at my home – the halfway point of the LAND year.

LAND 25

WEATHER REPORT – overcast most of the day. Temperature 18 – 21 degrees. Wind 1 – 5 m/s, changeable. Hours of precipitation: 0 hours. Hours of sunshine: 4 hours.

STOPS with the BIVVY – 0

KILOMETRES WALKED – 18.37 km

DAY LASTED – 17h and 26 m

PEOPLE TALKED TO – 5

BIRDS SEEN and HEARD – 44 species: 0 new, running total = 117 species

LESSONS LEARNED – Getting better at organising my new rucksack

IN MY HEAD – times past, kids and family, bad dreams, Højskole teaching ‘Blackwater’ (DR series)…